Ants Climbing a Tree

A justly famous, very spicy Szechwanese classic, so named because the dots of meat scattered throughout the noodles are thought to resemble ants. Think what you will of the name, but it is positive addiction for chili lovers and texture fiends. The little cubes of carrots, an untraditional touch, lend color and dash.

• Bean threads, the transparent “glass” noodles that wrap dutifully around one’s tongue in submission, are here at their slinky, slippery best, stai