Celery and Pork Thread Fried Rice

Fried rice is one of my favorite midnight indulgences and rarely has it ever tasted so good as when prepared one wintry night by my Chinese friends, the Hu’s, in the kitchen of their restaurant. The crowds were gone, the cooks were beat, and everyone was warmed by this simple snack.

• All that is needed is what was on hand—a bit of fresh pork butt, a few stalks from the tender heart of the celery, and a mound of colorful carrot cubes. The splash of wine is mine,