6 French Chef Minces Words

Michel Guérard’s Oeuf Poule au Caviar


Almost all non-Foodies confuse cuisine minceur with nouvelle cuisine. This muddle is a left-over from the late 1970s, when food writers and journalists confused the new general trend of French cookery (NC) with Michel Guérard’s specialised recipes for slimmers (CM), which he first devised for his own use. This was made easy to do by the simple elegance of CM recipes such as this one, which even the great NC chef Bocuse would occasionally dish up to favoured customers in explicit homage to his CM colleague.

Guérard says to slice the tops of fresh eggs very carefully with a serrated knife about ½ inch (1 cm) above the roundest part of the shell. Then scramble the egg over the lowest possible heat, as slowly as possible, and remove when it is still a light cream. Beat in a half teaspoon of fromage blanc 0% (not butter) per serving, along with salt and pepper, ¼ tbs finely minced onion and ¼ tsp chopped chives. Spoon this into washed and dried eggshells, top each one with 15g (½ oz) best Iranian Sevruga caviar, and replace the top of the egg. Calories: not many. Cost: plenty.