Pairing meat sauces with fish is something that I’ve been doing for more than a decade; it gives these dishes a depth and hearty structure that is especially welcome in the winter months. Serve this with a great pinot noir.


  • 1 pound Brussels sprouts, halved
  • 4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
  • 1 large yellow onion, diced
  • 2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed with the side of a chef’s knife
  • 1 quart heavy cream
  • 6 fresh lemon thyme sprigs
  • 2 tablespoons yellow mustard
  • 2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard
  • 12 ounces skinless wild salmon fillet, cut crosswise into 8 narrow strips
  • Extra-virgin olive oil
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 4 very thin slices pancetta
  • ¼ cup store-bought veal of beef demi-glace
  • Handful of gourmet potato chips, for garnish
  • Thyme leaves, for garnish


Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil and place a large bowl of ice water next to the stove. Add the Brussels sprouts to the boiling water and cook for 1 minute. Immediately drain the sprouts and plunge them into the ice water to stop the cooking process. Drain and set aside.

Return the pot to the stove over medium heat and add 3 tablespoons of the butter. Once melted, add the onions and garlic and cook until the onions are translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the cream, lemon thyme sprigs, and both mustards, and cook over medium heat until reduced by a third, about 20 minutes. Fold in the drained Brussels sprouts.

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Working with two of the salmon strips at a time, nestle the fish into a yin-yang shape and secure with kitchen string. Place an ovenproof skillet over high heat. Once it is hot, add a 2-count of extra-virgin olive oil. Season the fish on both sides with salt and pepper. Gently lay the 4 salmon rolls in the pan and sear until golden brown on one side, about 3 minutes. Add the remaining tablespoon of butter to the pan, turn the fillets over, and transfer the skillet to the oven. Roast for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the salmon is nearly cooked through; it should be slightly pink in the center. Remove the string.

In a small skillet, cook the pancetta slices over low heat until the fat is rendered and the pancetta is crisp. Drain the pancetta on paper towels. In a small saucepan, bring the demi-glace just to a simmer over medium heat; immediately remove from the heat. Spoon some of the Brussels sprouts onto each plate and top with the salmon, crispy pancetta, and a few potato chips. Drizzle the veal jus around the plate and sprinkle with a few lemon thyme leaves.