Osso buco is the Cadillac of braised dishes, and this is my take on the Italian classic, using California zinfandel instead of the traditional Brunello.
Put the flour on a large plate and season it with a fair amount of salt and pepper. Dredge the veal shanks in the seasoned flour and then tap off the excess. Heat a large, heavy pot over medium heat and hit it with a 3-count of oil. Add the butter and swirl it around the pan to melt. Add the veal shanks and sear on all sides, turning carefully with tongs, until they are a rich brown all over. Drizzle a little more oil into the pan if needed. Remove the browned veal shanks to a plate.
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Add the onions, celery, carrots, lemon zest, garlic, bay leaves, and parsley to the same pot and cook over medium heat, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Cook the vegetables until they start to get some color and develop a deep, rich aroma, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Nestle the veal shanks back into the pot, add the wine, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes, or until reduced by half. Add the beef broth and tomatoes, crushing them with your hands as they go in the pot, and stir everything together. Cover the pot, transfer it to the oven, and braise the veal for 2 hours, removing the lid after 1½ hours. The sauce should be thick and the veal tender and nearly falling off the bone. Discard the bay leaves.
Toast the pine nuts in a small, dry skillet over medium-low heat, shaking the pan often, until fragrant and golden, 6 to 8 minutes. Cool the pine nuts, then finely chop and place in a mixing bowl. Fold in the kumquats, cranberries, garlic, and parsley.
Serve the osso buco in shallow bowls sprinkled with some of the gremolata.
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