Don’t wait for a winter dinner party to make this pure-comfort dish. It’s a rich, briny take on a traditional gratin: a creamy Mornay sauce for the cauliflower with a crunchy breadcrumb topping. It’ll be a wonderful addition to a summer meal, particularly if it’s served at room temperature. In fact, it’s probably hearty enough to be a “large plate” if you pair it with a generous selection of hot and sweet pickles. (In which case, it’ll probably make just 6 servings.)
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