Chinese Black Mushrooms

Called “dong gu,” in China, these are the shiitake mushrooms (actually the Japanese name) mushrooms that are widely available, fresh and dried, in American markets. Quality levels of these flavor powerhouses vary widely, especially among dried (better-quality dried mushrooms can be four times the price per pound of the lowest quality). In Southeast Asia quality is assessed by the thickness of the cap, (thicker is better), the texture of the cap, and the color of the gills underneath the cap. Much of this is determined by the growing conditions of the mushrooms. The coloring is mostly a result of the technique of drying them. The best quality mushrooms have thick caps with visible cracks and pale, still-intact gills below. It’s worth the money to get high-quality mushrooms, since their thick, meaty texture and deeper flavor can make or break a dish. The stems of dried black mushrooms are edible, but so tough that they’re used only for flavoring stocks and broths. Thai: het hom; Malay: cendawan; Vietnamese: nấm hương/nấm đông-cô