Cabbage

Appears in
A Canon of Vegetables

By Raymond Sokolov

Published 2007

  • About

Cabbage (Brassica oleracea) is the ancestor of Brussels sprouts as well as cauliflower, broccoli, kale, and kohlrabi—all of which belong to the same species. The Brassica genus also includes Chinese cabbage, Chinese kale, some mustards and mustard greens, rape (the source of Canola oil), turnips, and rutabaga.

Cabbage has been around for a long time, at least as long as Egyptian hieroglyphics; so people have had ample opportunity to devise toothsome ways to prepare it. For some of us, it has worn out its welcome. A well-bred Radcliffe bluestocking once fled my house as soon as she sniffed cabbage steaming in the kitchen. Cabbage does emit a strong odor, but I think the young woman’s antipathy was based more on unhappy memories of overcooked cabbage than on the aroma itself. I like the smell because it portends a delightfully flavored, just-short-of-mushy wedge flavored with salt, caraway, butter, and a little red wine.