Throughout the vine-growing and olive-growing areas of Italy, the most popular form of meat cooking is over a wood fire. There is an obvious appeal in cooking over aromatic wood, the lure of the barbecue, and when it’s done skilfully, with care and with good raw materials, the results are memorable. Unfortunately nine times out of ten in the Orvieto region, the results are disastrous: poor-quality, badly trimmed meat incinerated to resemble a leathery forensic exhibit.
© 1996 Alastair Little. All rights reserved.