Cosce d’Agnello Disossate

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This butterflied leg of lamb is the best piece of lamb for grilling, and it will generously feed four or five people, providing both pink and well-done meat. Ask your butcher to bone and open out a small leg of lamb. He should then lightly flatten this out into an irregular rectangle with a few judicious taps of his mighty cleaver. Lay the meat flat in a high-sided tray and season very generously, then brush with flavoured oil. Repeat on the other side. Leave to marinate at room temperature for 3–4 hours, loosely covered with a clean teatowel. This will at least partially age the meat, making up for modern butchers’ inadequate hanging times. Scatter with extra rosemary.

The fire should be medium. Lift the meat out of its tray and without brushing off or draining the oil, slap it skin side down on the fire. The oil will probably blaze up at this stage, but this is all part of the ritual and is undeniably impressive. Grill without prodding or moving for 15 minutes then turn and cook for 5 minutes on the other non-fatty face. Now slide to a much cooler part of the grill, oil again and leave to calm down for 5 minutes.
Hack into chunks and serve with a green salad and pitta bread.