Lamb’s Liver Faggots

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Lamb is not my favourite type of liver, but from new season’s lamb and very fresh, this is possibly the best way of cooking it. You will need to persuade your butcher to get you some caul fat (about 150 g), and to cut you 8 × 7–8 mm thick slices of best lamb’s liver. This is for four people. Find 8 fine sage leaves and press one on to each slice, season lightly, cover and refrigerate the meat. Put the caul fat in a large bowl and rinse thoroughly for an hour under running water (careful, it has a habit of running over the edge of the bowl down the plughole and wreaking havoc in the ‘U’ bend). Spread the rinsed and drained caul fat out over a board and cut into 8 squares the size of this book. Wrap each slice of liver in this, pulling and stretching the caul as you go – it will surprise you how far it does stretch. This job is rather pleasant in an anatomical sort of way.
Season well and grill for 3 minutes on each side, then eat immediately, slightly pink. (My butcher in Italy prepares these for me, and they’ve converted me to the qualities of lamb’s liver.)