Walk into any gelateria in Italy and you will be presented with a bewildering array of delicious home-made ice creams and sorbets, all made on the premises, all surely so much better than anywhere else. This is a myth: the choice is dispiritingly universal across the country. ‘Home-made’ in that industrially produced mixes and syrups are processed on the premises in sleek machines (they are, after all, Italian machines), which incorporate as much air into the product as possible. ‘Delicious’, no, rather dull, and ‘better than anywhere else’, simply not true: Moscow has and has always had better ice cream. There are very good gelaterie, usually one in every city, and the queues of Italians in it will announce the fact, but even these produce an ice that is not to the same standard as the best of other countries. Here I give the basic ice cream recipes. They are unashamedly not Italian but are easily achievable without an ice-cream machine.
© 1996 Alastair Little. All rights reserved.