Advice to Modern Cooks

217. Sacred Emily, 1913. Cited in John Bartlett, Familiar Quotations, 15th ed. (Boston: Little, Brown, 1980), 752:8.

218. There are almost as many solutions to the problem of producing an acceptable loaf in the American kitchen as there are American cookbook authors.

219. Alan Davidson thinks otherwise. “It looks unprepossessing—small white curled-up knobbly fragments—but is considered a great delicacy, and the taste and texture which it gives to pie fillings are distinctive and delicious.” Davidson then quotes Molokhovets’ directions for preparing viziga: “ ‘Remove the spinal cords of a sturgeon, wash them and wipe them dry, and hang them out on a string to dry. When they are half dry, wind them into balls, like a skein of threads, tie them together and dry them out over the stove.’ ” See North Atlantic Seafood, 349. One of the anomalies of Molokhovets’ work is that directions for drying viziga, which surely was more of a commercial than a domestic operation, were included in the late Berlin edition (II, 196, 4056), but not in any of the Russian editions up to and including the twentieth.