Today’s veal is a far cry from the young calves that were slaughtered on Lowcountry plantations. I order naturally raised veal that is allowed to walk around and is given only its mother’s milk. It is delicious. Decent beef is becoming increasingly difficult to find as more of our small farmers and butchers go out of business each year. Recipes for roasts and stews have changed little through the years, so I have included a few beef and veal recipes that are less likely to be found in other cookbooks.

One of the most amazing flavors I know comes from cooking a steak in Chanterelle Butter. Put a little of the butter in a hot pan, melt it, then add some nice steaks, seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Sear the steaks on both sides and continue cooking until they are done to your liking. Remove the steaks and set them on a warm platter, then add some bourbon to the pan to deglaze, scraping up any little bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Stir it all together well, then ignite the bourbon to burn off the alcohol. Pour over the steaks and serve immediately. I jokingly call this fake pecan butter, using what most people would consider a luxury to imitate another ingredient taken for granted in the Lowcountry.

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