Often called chanterelles in other parts of France, the apricot-scented orange-yellow Cantharellus cibarius is a strong contender in the mushroom popularity contest, and occasionally even has its own weather forecast on a sideshoot of the French meteo map. It comes relatively early in the season, in August; is frequently found in great masses; and is probably one of the most delicate, delicious and appetizing of all mushrooms. You may find them in troops, large and small together, under beech trees. They emerge in fortnightly cycles, so if you walk to your chosen spot and pick them all, when you come back a fortnight later, more will have grown. They tend to be gritty. To prepare them.