As it starts getting colder, the lessening of ingredients becomes noticeable — although this month still holds some beautiful gifts. There are chestnuts, sold roasted in small white paper packets in the streets. There are marvellous olives, brussels sprouts and the beautiful, rare elegance of truffles. There are cabbages, baby onions, cauliflowers and newborn bottles of jade and amber olive oil. This year’s new wine is already on the table, and people are planning meals around November’s few and special ingredients.