Truffles

Tuber species and Leucangium carthusianum

Fresh truffles are chefs’ terrain for the most part. They spoil too quickly and cost too much to be displayed in markets, where customers may or may not buy them before they expire. Truffling in restaurants is another matter. Americans seem Tuber-tracked when they dine out these days. Even modest restaurants offer truffled pasta and risotto, and truffle tasting menus have mushroomed in high-end dining rooms nationwide.