These ‘Jewish’ artichokes are a Roman speciality, which are served in the Ghetto, an ancient quarter of Rome. This is the oldest surviving native cuisine in Rome, and the best, and was introduced to me by Jonathan Meades, The Times’ restaurant critic. The artichokes are deep-fried, like crisps on the outside but tender-hearted inside, and you eat everything. They must be very well drained otherwise they are greasy. They are an essential part of the Roman frítto misto, much beloved of Jonathan. This has nothing to do with deep-fried fish, and everything to do with the obscurer parts of a lamb (spleen, testicles, brain, spinal cord etc.). It is usually astonishingly good, with the unpleasant-looking but delicious parts being safely hidden in batter.