Fegato alla Veneziana

Disregarding considerations of cruelty and humane animal husbandry, the innards of veal calves make some of the finest meat dishes. Sweetbreads, brains, testicles and the tripes are all wonderful, particularly the Roman speciality of Pagliata, the small intestine still full of milky substances which I thought a nauseating concept until I inadvertently tried it.

Of all the veal ‘variety meats’ (‘American speak’ for offal), liver is possibly the finest, and certainly the most likely t