The fish to use for this recipe is royal sea bream. These are identified by the bass-like silvery grey colour, rather imperial Roman bump on their nose, and their astronomical cost. Other bream like red or black, or red mullet, are less good, but if fresh, perfectly acceptable. The fish is baked on a bed of sliced potatoes and onions, moistened with olive oil. I first ate this fish in a transport café near Livorno; would that the British greasy spoons could even come close.

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