Anguilla allo Spiedo

Lago di Trasimeno is Umbria’s largest lake, and this dish of fat eel steaks, wrapped in thin pancetta and skewered with bay leaves and roasted over a wood fire, is the best of the local fish specialities. If you like eels, then this has to be one of the best dishes in the world; if you don’t like eels, you haven’t even read this far. I have opted to cook this in a hot oven rather than on a barbecue because this seems more achievable.

A large eel is better for this dish than two smal