Wild Mushroom Soup

‘Simply handling the main ingredients for this soup - wild mushrooms - fills me with ecstasy and reminds me always of autumnal walks in beautiful woods in search of them. This soup can be made in two ways, both of which are delicious. At the Neal Street Restaurant, I serve the version made with fresh ceps, and it is still, some twenty years later, one of the most popular items on the menu. (During the rest of the year I make it with ceps I have frozen.) The alternative version is even simpl