Jamie Oliver described me as a ‘raving heathen’ when I suggested this recipe to him, but it is the only recipe I can claim to have given him, if you can call it a recipe. We were toiling in the midday heat in the ancient and wood-fired kitchen of the Petrolo estate in Tuscany when I went ahead, against his expert and foul-mouthed objections, and fed him beautifully frozen fragola grapes from a height like an ancient Roman. Muscat grapes work really well, but any grape will freeze. In the freezer, the juice inside turns to sorbet while the skin remains hard and ‘pops’ to the bite. Jamie now serves his with hunks of chocolate and a nice chilled glass of grappa, but I prefer mine with a glass of Petrolo’s red.