This dish is just one of many Tuscan dishes that form part of a centuries-old debate. In 1533 Catherine de’ Medici went to France to marry the future Henry II, taking with her a retinue of chefs and so starting the debate about the origin of certain dishes. Some are internationally identified with French cuisine but the Tuscans claim them for their own. Who now knows whether Catherine and her chefs changed the course of French cooking with dishes such as an