This thick, richly tomato-tasting soup that was once almost the porridge of Tuscany is one such, traditional dish. If you make sure the tomatoes and basil are fresh, the bread stale and the garlic lavish, you cannot go far wrong. It can be, and is, served hot or cold, tepid or, less authentically, with ice cubes and topped with a generous handful of fresh chopped basil. (Failing basil, other fres