As I get older, I become more nostalgic for the foods of my past. My grown children are also nostalgic, and their pasts are shorter than mine. They still talk about piroshki they ate years ago in San Francisco Russian restaurants that used to be on Clement Street. Alas, these little Mom and Pop places are gone, but obviously not forgotten. The piroshki recipe that follows is worth the effort to prepare. There are many different fillings, some with meat, some with cabbage; my favorite is with mushrooms.
The filling for these Russian pastries can be made well ahead. While they don’t freeze well in an unbaked state, you can bake them and hold them for quite a while, then reheat. They are also really good deep-fried. A few of these plus a salad can be lunch, or served as an accompaniment to a soup (how about borscht?) for a light supper.
For the dough, stir together the yeast,
Cover the dough loosely with a towel and let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 45 minutes; punch down.
Meanwhile, to make the filling, melt the butter in a large sauté pan or skillet over medium heat. Add the minced onions and cook until soft and golden, but not brown, about 10 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook 5 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining filling ingredients. Taste and adjust seasonings. Let cool.
© 1992 Joyce Goldstein. All rights reserved.