The traditional Middle Eastern dolma, or grape leaf, filling can be used as a stuffing for fish as well as for vegetables. In Turkey this dish is most often prepared with mackerel; Americans seem to prefer the milder and sweeter trout or coho salmon trout. Serve with sautéed spinach or broiled eggplant and zucchini.
Heat the oil or butter in a small sauté pan or skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until tender, about 7 minutes. Add the coriander and allspice or cinnamon, if using, and cook 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the pine nuts, currants, parsley, dill, and toasted bread crumbs. Season to taste. Let cool.
Spoon the stuffing mixture into the cavities of the trout and sew the openings closed with a large sewing needle and cotton thread. (You may prepare the fish several hours in advance and refrigerate.) Heat a grill or broiler. Brush each fish with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill or broil until just cooked through, about 4 minutes each side. (The trout may also be baked in a 375-degree oven for about 15 minutes; baste them occasionally with a little olive oil. Or if you are very careful, the fish may be sautéed in a large sauté pan or skillet over medium heat in butter or oil.) Serve hot with lemon wedges.
© 1992 Joyce Goldstein. All rights reserved.