Lemon Tart from Nice

The Côte d’Azur, the seaside area of southern France that stretches from Cassis in the west to Menton at the Italian border, abounds in excellent citrus fruit. Lemon tarts of all kinds are made in the area, but to me the best one is from Nice. One of my favorite haunts in Nice’s old town is the Rue Peyrolière, a narrow, winding way that is filled with food stores such as bakeries and fish markets (it’s not unusual to see a half-ton tuna lying on the ground in front of a fish market). One of