Anna Tasca Lanza is an old friend whose family’s ancestral home is the Regaleali wine estate near Caltanisetta in central Sicily. For many years the family’s estate has had a remarkable chef, Mario Lo Menzo, one of the last of a breed thoroughly trained in elaborate French-based cooking, who are called monzù (a corruption of the French monsieur). The monzù tradition began early in the nineteenth century, when many French chefs migrated to Napl