This is loosely based on a recipe from Alain Passard’s restaurant L’Arpège in Paris. My friend Jeffrey Steingarten, the food critic for Vogue, visited this restaurant and watched the staff prepare the tart for a story he was doing, then shared the recipe with me. It is an intriguing and not particularly difficult recipe. A lattice or grill of thin strips of puff pastry is topped with shredded appl