It was the wife of a colleague of my husband’s who first made me a very well-known Muslim meat dish, the handi kabab. The name comes from the Bengali handi, the peculiar cooking pot, round bottomed and with a pitcher-like narrowing of the neck and a wide rim for easy handling. This dish was something I had heard about from childhood. All kababs are Muslim preparations, but somehow the handi kabab seemed to have an especially strong flavour of the ‘other’ community. Strangely, though I lived in Dhaka for almost seven years, and was invited to eat at many homes, this was the only occasion when I was given the handi kabab. That year, the festival of Bakr-Id had fallen in the winter and the handi kabab was the ideal way to prepare some of the sacrificial meat. If you don’t have a handi, this can be made equally well in a large thick-bottomed pot with raised sides and a fitting lid.