When I considered cooking a breast of veal, the late Laurie Colwin’s words rang in my ears: “Stuffed breast of veal: a bad idea.” Well, her experience was with a stuffed boneless breast; I definitely wanted my breast with bones. When I looked at the cut, I couldn’t imagine boning it or taking the time to stuff it. So much better, I thought, to braise it slowly and let all the natural collagen from the veal and
