Cherry Jam

You can use either sweet (bing) or sour cherries for this jam. If you use sweet cherries, consider using only 1½ cups sugar (though this will result in a slightly looser consistency), and adding the lemon zest to make up for the lack of tartness in the cherries. If you prefer a fairly thick jam, go ahead and leave the apple pulp in—it won’t appreciably diminish the cherry flavor here; just use tongs to pick out the peels when they start to separate from the softened apples, and then smush t