Spiced Concord Grape Jam

Humble grape jam isn’t something you see all that often—it’s almost completely eclipsed by its stiffer, Clearer Cousin. But that’s a shame. The hulls are here made tender with simmering in the rich grape juice and are allowed to take center stage. Also, with Concord grapes it’s easier to achieve a jamlike spread than a jellylike one: Jam doesn’t have to set firmly to be usable, so you can use fully ripe fruit here with no pectin-related repercussions.