Baked John Dory

Stewed cucumbers were the traditional garnish for this dish, but thinly sliced fresh cucumber is a superior choice and looks particularly striking. The triangular croutons, which were called “sippets” in historical recipes, have been served with savory dishes of all kinds—soups, broths, meats, fish—since the thirteenth century. It might seem strange to contemporary diners to serve toast with fish, but it is a surprisingly pleasant pairing.