This is another ancient and popular dish in France and, although the recipe remains more or less the same, for reasons of economy old partridges are often used, but young birds give better results. In the more expensive or refined version of this famous dish, the cabbage is cooked with an old partridge, which is not served at table, young partridges, previously roasted, being added to the cabbage just before serving. The recipe given below is a compromise between the two methods.
Melt a little lard in a saucepan and, when hot, put in the birds. Cook till slightly and evenly browned. Remove the birds from the saucepan. Put in the bacon, add a layer of cabbage, previously washed, blanched, well drained, and seasoned with a little salt and pepper. Over this place the birds, the carrots, scraped and left whole, the sausage, the onion, the herbs and the stock, or stock and wine. Cover with buttered paper and a close-fitting lid. Simmer very gently in the oven for about 1½ hours. Remove the partridges, however, as soon as they are quite tender, adding them again to the cabbage a few minutes only before serving. To serve, cut the bacon in small pieces, slice the sausages, place the cabbage in the centre of the dish with the partridges over them, and garnish with the sausages, etc. Pour over the whole a little of the stock, thickened with a little flour and butter.