This dish, from William Verral’s cookbook, is an excellent starter or supper dish. He was chef to the Duke of Newcastle and was sent for an exchange to the kitchens of the Marquis de St Cloud. He came back complaining the French only had one sauce! Eventually he became one of the great political taverners of the 18th century, owning the White Hart at Lewes, which numbered among its residents, Tom Paine.