This is a 17th century dish from the pastry cook Anne Blencowe. Sweet oranges first came to Britain at this time from Ceylon and were a luxury. It is wonderful to see these filled oranges being brought to the table in a basket lined with a napkin and the surprised rapture when the diners discover the filling. Removing all the pith from the orange shells takes some effort, but it is worth it - and every time I have served them to knowledgeable foodies they have gone mad for
