This is a sauce described by Elizabeth David in French Provincial Cooking; incidentally she suggests hollandaise as a sauce for œufs mollets (very soft-boiled eggs) – imagine. I once employed a waiter from Nevers, who had never heard of sauce nivernaise. Perhaps I should have asked a chef from Nevers. (I once asked a waiter from Bandol what tapénade was. I’ve really got it in for tapenade. He didn’t k