Jerusalem Artichoke Soup

This is an unashamed lift from Escoffier. His feet, size 6 on their built-up soles, may have been made of clay (he had some twentieth-century fin-de-siècle counterparts in Paris) but the breadth and depth of his knowledge are astonishing. Surrounded as we restaurant chefs are today by labour-saving gadgets, plentiful hot water and (fairly) sophisticated ventilation, Escoffier’s energy and accomplishments, and those of his lieutenants, are awe-inspiring. His books are so packed with instruct