Hot Chicken Liver Mousse

Another one – but with a light, spongy texture. This is quite rich, a variation on the haute cuisine ‘gâteau de foies de volailles blondes’ which twenty years ago would have been served with an even richer ‘sauce Nantua’ – pounded crayfish shells mixed into a fish velouté. It can’t be denied, though, that a thick, cloying, buttery sauce, far from taking the whole thing over the top, somehow cancels out the richness. Serving cream with something chocolatey does the same sort of thing. One of