The Famous 18th-century gastronome, Yuan Mei, in his Cookery Lists opines that, in the summer, aubergines are delicious cooked this way: ‘Steam them until limp then break them up. Dress them with sesame oil and rice vinegar.’ Inspired by his words, I have made up the following recipe, which I find not only suitable as a summer salad but also delicious as a winter starter before
