‘Ice the bean curd cakes overnight,’ begins one of Yuan Mei’s bean curd recipes, ‘then cut them into square cubes and blanch them to get rid of the bean odour. Add chicken stock, ham stock and meat stock to braise them. Before bringing the dish to the table, discard the chicken, ham etc., retaining only the fragrant mushrooms and winter bamboo shoots. When bean curd cakes are braised for a long time, they will loos