Until I started working on this book, I thought that all corned beef was prepared in a brine. But maybe not. Here’s a dry-cure recipe from Morton Salt Company, which they call deli-style corned beef, made with a commercial cure called Morton Tender Quick, which is available in some supermarkets. (If you don’t find it in the salt section, look in the canning section.) I can’t argue with the results—or with the simplicity of this method. Personally, I prefer to find a fresh brisket that is on the lean side, if possible. The recipe calls for ground bay leaves and ground allspice. If you normally keep these ingredients whole, they can be ground with a mortar and pestle.