Before setting forth his recipe in A Man’s taste, published by The Junior League of Memphis, Dr. Eph Wilkinson said, “The quality of the ham makes all the difference in any country ham recipe. I grew up on a farm in East Tennessee where we killed hogs every fall. The hams were sugar-cured and smoked with hickory and sassafras. I sure wish I could get just one of these hams!” I too would like to have one of those hams, but I tested Dr.