Nonna Laura’s ninety-year-old hands still work faster than someone a third of her age. “The gnocchi very eass’, you see?” she says as she looks up at me, smiling while she rolls gnocchi horizontally across a wooden board so that they sort of resemble rigatoni. The light, pillowy dough isn’t sticky to the touch when coated in flour, but it’s moist on the inside, which will result in perfectly soft gnocchi. The general rule is the softer the dough, the softer the gnocchi, so