Since he was a little boy, Ruslan would go to the New Market in Odesa with his grandmother and mother, who would teach him the culture of market shopping: how to choose (and keep) your vendors, what is best to buy on which days, how to haggle, and who has the freshest fish. Looking for inexpensive but really good-quality ingredients has always been important to Odesans. So even in the last twenty years, when most things have become available in supermarkets, the tradition o