“Odesa for me is my favorite place in the world. And the best place to eat,” Alexander Mardan told me. A proud Odesan and a bit of a legend in the city, he is a playwright whose plays have been staged all around Ukraine and in many other countries. Alexander recounts how in Greece, a place would earn the title of a “city” once a theater was built there. Well, in Odesa there are enough theaters for at least ten cities! And almost