From the Girl with the Goby Tattoo

Gobies are probably the most emblematic fish of this part of the Black Sea and of Odesa. They have a delicate white flesh with few bones and a skin that takes on a delicious umami flavor when fried in cornmeal. Natasha is from an Odesan family who moved to Berlin many years ago. But she never forgot the taste of Black Sea gobies, which her grandmother often fried for her during the summer holidays. When she grew up, she bought a boat, learned how to sail it