Olga and Sergey, who work together as tour guide and chef, are both from Odesa. They told us that Vilkovo herring is especially renowned because of the tenderness of its fat. The fish swim from the Black Sea to the river for just a couple of months a year, developing a delicate, melt-in-your-mouth texture. Sergey suggests serving the herring with boiled new potatoes, dressed in a mixture of butter, unrefined sunflower oil, and dill. It’s an
